Duck Egg Tart at Medlar

Duck Egg Tart at Medlar

I can say this straight away and unequivocally: the meal I ate last week at Medlar was one of the best I’ve ever eaten. Every course was spot-on, with surprising, delicious and delighting combinations of elements that in every case amounted to more than the sum of...
All Balls at Cinnamon Soho

All Balls at Cinnamon Soho

It’s pretty unavoidable to point out. As ‘tapas concepts’ go, spherical-foods is a little… odd, even if the food futurologist we saw a couple of years ago at the V&A did predict that the future was balls. C.f. cake pops. “As ‘tapas concepts’ go, spherical-foods...
Laksa at Providores

Laksa at Providores

Rachael is very clear, almost to the point of obsession, about the notion that laksa must include in its ingredients laksa leaves. I can see her point. Or at least, if her contention is correct that if the soup is named after the leaves, then it seems pretty likely...
Baked Alaska at The Lawn Bistro

Baked Alaska at The Lawn Bistro

So I’ve a confession: I’ve never eaten baked Alaska! That does mean that I’ve long known the ‘trick’ to the dish, which slightly diminishes the surprise of its cold-on-the-inside baked-on-the-outside magic. But The Lawn Bistro adds an additional flourish: pouring over...