Our first big disappointment of the Time Out Top 100 list – not because of the food in the restaurant but because Time Out failed to give a sufficiently specific name to easily identify the relevant dish. Why they couldn’t use the name in the menu was beyond us, but the inclusion of a mention of red onion allowed us to identify the Don Ceviche as our target.

“A taste subtle, spicy, sour and umami all at once”

The size of the chunks was essential. Rather than a transient, thin texture, this ceviche offered real bite. Eating it was a similar tangible experience as pickled herring, but with a taste subtle, spicy, sour and umami all at once.

Sweet, crisp fried carrot thins were matched with citrus, starchy centimetre cubed carrot chunks – were these steamed or ceviche themselves? I couldn’t tell. Add to this the sharpness of thin strips of red onion and you get a dish with great, complementary flavours, textures and mouth-feel. Oh, and it was delicious.

25/100 best dishes in London.